More than 70,000 poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are sold each year making this the most popular flowering plant in the United States. The poinsettia is a native of Mexico. It was named for Joel Roberts Poinsett, U.S. ambassador to Mexico, who introduced it to the states in 1828. With care, you can brighten your home with the colorful bracts (the true flowers are tiny and yellow) from the holiday season through Valentine's Day.

• Large bracts
• Dark green foliage
• Compact plant that doesn't look leggy

Remember, this is a greenhouse grown plant and it is very sensitive to temperature changes.

• Cover with plastic, newspaper or a bag.
• Keep it in the car with you and the heater - not in the trunk.

• Bright, indirect light.
• Cool conditions with medium to high humidity.
• Keep away from doors and drafts where they may get gusts of cold air.
• Keep away from windows that can cause temperature changes and chills.
• Keep away from heating vents and fireplaces.
• Check daily and water whenever the soil is dry.
• Do not let the plant wilt, but do not water if the soil is wet.
• Water with room-temperature water.
• Water thoroughly until the water drains out, and then empty the catch tray.
• Do not allow the pot to sit in standing water.
• For foil-wrapped pots, make a hole in the bottom of the foil to allow water to drain into a catch tray.

It is probably easier to discard your poinsettias when the bloom fades than to attempt to keep your plant for next year. However, many folks will want the challenge so here are some helpful hints.

• Follow the directions above until all danger of frost is past.
• Cut the stems to within 4 to 6 inches of the soil. Move the plant to a container that is 2 to 4 inches larger than the original pot.
• Move your plant outdoors to a bright, partially-shaded area or area that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. The location should be protected from drying winds and high-reflected light.
• Sink the pot to the rim.
• Water often but reasonably. Avoid extremes of wet or dry.
• Fertilize with a complete houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20) according to directions.
• Shape as desired by pruning and/or pinching. Pinching encourages more blooms. Do not shape after Sept. 1.
• Turn the pot regularly to preventing rooting and ensure even growth. A quarter turn each week is desirable, but the plant will do fine with less.
• When night temperatures begin to fall below 60 degrees, bring your plant inside. Continue to water and fertilize.
• Beginning October 1, give the poinsettia 14 hours of complete continuous darkness daily. This can be done by placing the plant in a closet or covering it with a cardboard box. Any light will delay or prevent flowering. Give your plant bright light for the remaining 10 hours.
• When your poinsettia is in full bloom, you can discontinue the forced darkness and proceed with the maintenance instructions above.

Good luck and I hope you enjoy your beautiful poinsettia. For more information, visit the following websites.

http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/l234.html

Early Egyptians brought palms indoors as a symbol of eternal life. Ancient Jews used tree boughs as decorations for their religious feasts. The Romans decorated their homes with tree boughs and greenery during their winter festival and trees with candles and trinkets attached were paraded around the streets. Around 600 AD, Pope Gregory encouraged the use of greenery and trees in Christian celebrations.

Martin Luther may have begun the Christmas tree tradition in Germany around 1500 AD. It is said that he brought a tree indoors and decorated it with candles to represent the majesty of his feelings about Christ's birth. German mercenaries brought the Christmas tree tradition to the United States. Because Puritan doctrine did not approve of a celebration at Christmas, the decorated tree took some time to become a customary tradition in America.

By the 1840's the use of Christmas trees became popular and in 1851 the first retail tree lot opened for business in New York City. Today, about 36 million Christmas trees are produced each year.

• Choose a suitable planting site and plan where in your home the tree will sit.
• Consider tree appearance and decide what is important to you: shape, density, scent, texture, strength of branches, and durability.
• Choose the nursery carefully. Are the trees well cared for? Are trees protected from harsh winds and the sun? Is the root ball moist, but not wet?
• Choose a tree suitable for your area. If you are not sure, call your local extension agent. Arizonica Cypress, Savannah Holly, Nellie R. Stevens Holly, Atlas Cedar, Japanese Cryptomeria, and Leyland Cypress are some good choices.
• Choose a healthy tree. Look for good color, flexible branch tips and firm needles. Gently run your hand down a branch or two. If the tree is fresh, very few needles should drop off.
• If choosing a balled and burlapped tree, be sure that the root ball is solid. Avoid trees that have many exposed or brown roots. Roots must be white and firm.
• Look for a single, straight trunk. Choose a small tree. They are easier to handle and have a much better chance of survival.

Caring for and Planting Your Tree After the Holidays:

• When you move your tree from the house, do not store it directly outdoors. The drastic change in temperature could cause injury. Store it in a cool, unheated area such as a garage or shed.
• Make sure that your root ball does not dry out or freeze.
• When the weather permits, remove the mulch from the hole and plant your tree. For information on planting trees and shrubs, visit our fact sheet on Transplanting Woody Plants at the Cobb Extension Service web site. You will find it in the Horticulture Fact Sheets.

• Transport your tree in a closed vehicle or be prepared to cover the tree to prevent wind burn.
• Ask your lot attendant to "bale" or wrap your tree from the tip to the branches.
• Load the tree with the butt end toward the front of your vehicle.
• Drive slowly.

• Fill a bucket or tree stand with several inches of water.
• If possible, trim about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the base of your tree.
• If you are not going to put up your tree right away, place your tree in a bucket of water.
• Place your tree in a stand. Your tree stand should hold at least one gallon of water AFTER the trunk is in place.
• Keep your tree away from heating vents, fireplaces and any other heat source.
• Do not let the stand dry out. From this point on, your tree just needs lots of water. You will hear about all the home remedies to make your tree last longer - sugar, aspirin, Sprite, bleach and on and on. Your tree doesn't need any of these. Lots of just plain water will do just fine.

For more information on Christmas Trees, visit the following websites:

Although their stems are often confused with leaves, holiday cacti are actually true cacti. They come in many bloom colors - pale to deep pink, red, purple, yellow and gold. They are native to the mountainous jungles of Brazil. This will give us a clue to their care.

• In late November or early December, look for plants that have well-developed buds but no open flowers. A cactus in full bloom at Thanksgiving will be done blooming by Christmas.
• Check the plants for general health.
• Check for pests such as mites, mealy bugs and scale insects.

Holiday cactus will normally rebloom at the same time each year. If you would like to control when your cactus blooms, you must manage the amount of light that the cactus gets in the weeks before blooming.

• After holiday blooming, remove spent flowers and apply a balanced houseplant fertilizer such as 10-10-10. If applying monthly, use full strength according to directions. If applying weekly with regular watering, apply at 25% strength. Stop fertilizing in September.
• 6 weeks before the desired bloom time, you must block out any light to your plant for 14 hours per day. You can do this by covering the plant with a box or placing it in a closet. All light must be blocked out or reblooming time can change drastically.
• Once flower buds appear, return to normal care.
• VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Once flower buds form, do not move your Christmas cactus to a new location. A change in light or temperature may cause many of the buds to stop developing and drop.

Even following these directions, it may take a few years of experimenting to get your holiday cactus to bloom when you want it to. Good luck.

For more information, check out the following website.

With its wide range of colors, cyclamen is an excellent gift plant with its blooms lasting from late fall into spring. Blossoms in white, pink, lavender, purple, red and bicolor may be frilled or ruffled. Cyclamen produces many flowers and makes an excellent gift plant.

• Look for fresh green leaves with no sign of wilting.
• Choose plant with few flowers and many buds.
• Check for pests such as mites, mealy bugs and scale insects.

Cyclamen is difficult to rebloom even with the best of care.

• After blooming, gradually decrease watering. When the leaves die, stop watering and let the tuberous stem remain dry for six weeks before resuming watering.
• With normal watering, bright light and cool temperatures, new leaves will appear. Perhaps your cyclamen will even bloom.

Even following these directions, it may take a few years of experimenting to get your holiday cactus to bloom when you want it to. Good luck.

For more information, check out the following website.

The Christmas Pepper is at its best in the winter. The decidedly ornamental fruit are shades of yellow, orange, red or purple. The peppers will be brighter with high light and 60-75 degree temperatures. Hot, dry air will cause the fruit to drop.

• Water well and never let your plant dry out.
• Mist the leaves regularly.
• Fertilize with a houseplant fertilizer each week according to directions.

Reblooming the Christmas pepper is extremely difficult.

Kalanchoe is available all year round and naturally blooms in the spring. It is often forced to bloom during the winter holidays. The long-lasting flowers consist of many bright colors including red, orange, pink, and yellow and sit high above the foliage. Flowers will last three to six weeks in normal home temperatures.

• Temperature 60-80 degrees
• Bright light, full sun. Place in a sunny window or outdoors in the late spring.
• Water well but let the soil dry out between waterings.
• Fertilize with a houseplant fertilizer each week according to directions.
• After holiday blooming, remove spent flowers and apply a balanced houseplant fertilizer such as 10-10-10. If applying monthly, use full strength according to directions. If applying weekly with regular watering, apply at 25% strength. Stop fertilizing in September.
• Pests include mealy bugs and mites that can be controlled with a good shower or a houseplant insecticide. Root rot may occur if soil is kept too moist and not allowed to dry between waterings.

• 6 weeks before your desired bloom time, you must block out any light to your plant for 14 hours per day. You can do this by covering the plant with a box or placing it in a closet. All light must be blocked out or reblooming time can change drastically.
• Reduce water and fertilizer during the low light treatment.
• Once flower buds appear, return to normal care.

Even following these directions, it may take a few years of experimenting to get your kalanchoe to bloom when you want it to. Good luck.

For more information, check out the following websites.

Traditionally, mistletoe is hung over a doorway to tempt passersby to pause for a Christmas kiss. This is all most people know about mistletoe.

However, mistletoe has a fascinating history. It is actually a parasitic plant that thrives on hardwood trees such as oak or apple. The leaves stay green all year long. Its waxy round berries may be either red or white. The mistletoe berries can cause serious illness and are best kept out of the reach of children and pets.

Birds eat the berries and spread the plant through their droppings. This is how mistletoe got its name. In the second century, "Mistel" was the Anglo-Saxon word for dung and "tan" was the word for twig. Misteltan is the Old English name for mistletoe.

Many theories abound about how mistletoe became connected with Christmas and kissing. A French tradition maintains that mistletoe was growing on the tree that was used to make the cross on which Jesus was crucified. Consequently, mistletoe was cursed and forever denied a place to live and grow on earth.

In the eighth century, the Vikings believed that mistletoe had the power to raise the dead. This began with the tale of Balder, the god of the summer sun, who was killed and then revived by mistletoe. His mother, the goddess of love and beauty, then celebrated by kissing everyone who walked underneath the mistletoe.

The Druids in the first century believed that mistletoe had fertility and healing powers as well as provided protection against witches. Sprigs from the ceremonial mistletoe were thought to keep one safe from evil spirits and storms.

By the way, there is a proper procedure for the use of mistletoe. The man should remove one berry each time he kisses a woman. When there are no more berries, there is no more kissing.