Fact Sheet on Rose Culture

email: uge1067@uga.edu

Picking the Planting Site: Six-hours of sunlight, morning sun is best; well drained, moderately fertile soil; pH 5.5 to 6.5; good airflow.

Preparing the Soil: Plow or spade 12" deep, remove rocks and debris. Add four inches organic matter, if needed. Add lime and fertilization according to soil sample results.

Buying Plants: Buy from reputable sources. Better-quality plants will cost more. Cheap plants are just that—cheap. Roses are graded based on size and number of canes. Grade 1 is top quality. Dormant rose plants are usually available as bare-root plants in December and January. Buy vigorous looking plants. Container plants generally have a better root system and transplant best in the spring and early summer months.

Planting: Planting season for Georgia is November through March. If you must plant in the late spring, stick to container roses. Spacing depends on variety and growth rate. Average spacing is three to four feet apart, five to six for vigorous growers.

Dig a hole large enough to suit the root system without crowding. Depth is critical. Construct a cone-like mound of soil in the middle of each hole high enough that, when planted, the graft union (swollen area of the main stem) is one inch above soil level. Spread the roots around the mound. Partially fill the hole with soil. When the roots are covered, add water to fill the hole and allow the water to soak in. Finish filling the hole with soil. Form a four-inch high ring around the outside of the planting hole to direct water to the roots. Water several times to settle the soil.

After planting bare-root roses, prune canes back to six to seven inches in height. Remove broken or discolored canes. In extreme north Georgia, mound soil or mulch around canes to prevent cold damage in winter. Remove mounded soil or mulch as soon as all danger of frost is past or new growth begins.

Container plants are planted no deeper than they were in the original container. Gently loosen roots before planting.

Never plant a ten-dollar rose in a two-dollar hole.

Mulch: Two to three inches of mulch is desirable. Use fall leaves, pine straw, ground pine bark or cypress chips. Do not put the mulch right up to the stem. Leave a clear area to reduce the chance of unnoticed insect or disease attack.

Watering: Three to five gallons per plant. Water mulched roses at least once per week during dry weather. Unmulched roses require watering more often. Avoid overhead watering as wet foliage promotes disease. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation.

Fertilizing: Fertilization depends on plant size, soil type, rainfall and growing season. An inexpensive soil test through your local extension service is your best guide to fertilization.

Pruning and Grooming: Pruning depends on type of rose. (See details in the publications listed below.) Well-pruned roses respond with larger, more attractive flowers. Major pruning is done in early spring before new growth begins. Groom throughout the year as needed to remove dead or diseased stems.

Cutting Roses: Cut in early morning or late afternoon. Cut on an angle one-fourth inch above a node and cut only the length you need. Put cut stems in water immediately and place cut roses in a cool, dark place for several hours.

Control of Pests: Buy healthy plants. Spray fungicides underneath plant. Cut away diseased or damaged canes four to six inches below the infected area. Before each cut, dip pruners in rubbing alcohol or a solution of nine parts water and one part bleach. Remove infected or dead debris from the property (do not add to the compost pile; do not burn.) Do not replant in areas where crown gall or nematodes have been found. Use preventive spray program.

Roses are particularly susceptible to Black Spot, Powdery Mildew, Botrytis Blossom Blight, Crown Gall, Stem Cankers, a variety of viruses and insects (aphids, thrips, spider mites, nematodes, and others).

Information taken from University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Services publications:

Rose Culture for Georgia Gardeners, Bulletin 671, October 1995, http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/b671-w.html

Rose Diseases in Georgia, Leaflet 227, July 1990

Rose Maintenance

By former Rachel Swinford
Horticulture Program Assistant

The University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the state cooperating. The Cooperative Extension Service offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, age, sex or disability.