Cobb County Extension
Service
Fact Sheet on Amaryllis
(Hippeastrum)
By Rachel Swinford
Horticulture Program Assistant
|
email: uge1067@arches.uga.edu
Amaryllis
Hippeastrum spp.
General
Culture
References
Family: Amaryllidaceae/Liliaceae
Botanical Name: Hippeastrum spp.
Native to South America
What could be better in the middle of a gloomy winter than the large, showy
flower of the popular Amaryllis? Amaryllis are outstanding holiday gifts that,
if cared for properly, will bloom for years to come. They are not difficult to
maintain, however, they are more complex than your everyday foliage houseplant.
We hope this step-by-step guide will help you brighten the chill for many
Januarys to come.
| Description: |
| Plant: |
Erect with flower cluster at the top, may produce flowers up
to 75 years; large bulbs produce 2 hollow stalks, 18 – 36
inches tall
|
| Flowers: |
Lily-like, bell-shaped, 6 petals, up to 8 inch across, as many
as 6 flowers per stalk (average 4), sweet scented in red, pink,
white, orange, salmon and bi-color combinations |
| Leaves: |
Strap-shaped, semi-erect appearing after flowering |
|
| Uses: |
| Cobb County: |
Container plant may be placed in the garden late spring and
summer. (May also be overwintered outdoors with proper placement
and sufficient mulching) |
| Macon and southward: |
Garden plant |
|
Stages of Growth
| 1. Purchase Bulbs: |
| Size: |
Purchase the largest available bulb because the larger the bulb
the better quality the flower. Look for firm, clean bulbs with no
signs of withering, disease or insect damage. Bulbs should be dry
and without new growth. |
| Note: |
If purchasing a pre-packaged bulb, evidence of new growth
signals the break of dormancy. Begin watering and fertilizer
treatment immediately. |
|
| 2. Planting: |
| Pot: |
Size the pot so that there is 1 inch of space between the bulb
and the side of the pot. Provide good drainage (1/2 inch of gravel
works well). |
| Soil Mix: |
Sandy-loam mix, soil mix for bulbs or 1/2 peat and 1/2 perlite,
slightly acid pH 6.0-6.8 |
| Timing: |
Amaryllis requires a minimum of 6 weeks of dormancy. After
planting, it takes another 6-8 weeks to flower. So, planting time
should be 8 weeks before you want your plant to flower. For
continuous bloom from December to May, stagger the start of
dormancy every two weeks from September to January. |
| Shoots: |
For a bold display, leave bublets attached to the mother bulb.
If you prefer, gently remove any bulblets and plant them
individually. New bublets flower in about 2 years. Two-year-old
bulbs produce bublets. |
| Preparation: |
Soak just the base and roots in lukewarm water for 2 hours. |
| Potting: |
Bury the bulb in soil leaving the top 1/3 of the bulb above the
soil surface and 1/2 to 1 inch of space between the soil surface
and the top of the pot (for ease of watering). |
| Moisture: |
Water thoroughly at this time and allow excess to drain. Do not
leave pot sitting in water. Do not water bulb nose. |
| Light: |
Amaryllis are sun loving. Southern window exposure is best, east
or west second best. In northern exposures, provide additional
light. |
| Fertilizer: |
No fertilizer at this time. Fertilizer before new growth will
damage and kill the roots. |
|
| 3. New Growth |
| Water: |
Keep slightly moist (not wet) until flowering. Do not water bulb
nose. |
| Light: |
Southern window exposure is best, east or west second best. In
northern exposures, provide additional light. For even growth,
turn pot every few days. |
| Temperature: |
Warm (70-75°F) |
| Fertilizer: |
Apply after new growth begins and again when stem is 6-8 inches
tall. Soluble or liquid complete (NPK) fertilizer at half
the recommended rate or a slow-release fertilizer at half
the recommended rate. |
|
| 4. Flower |
| Water: |
Increase water to prolong flowering. Do not water bulb nose. |
| Light: |
Keep plant out of direct sun when flowering. |
| Temperature: |
Cooler (65°F) to extend blooms. |
| Fertilizer: |
Apply immediately after flowering. Soluble or liquid complete (NPK)
fertilizer at half the recommended rate or a slow-release
fertilizer at half the recommended rate. |
| Care: |
Large bloom cultivars may require staking. As the flowers begin
to fade, remove flower parts to prevent seed formation and drain
on plant nutrients. After all flowers have bloomed cut stalk 2
inches above bulb neck (protect furniture from seepage from cut
stalk). Do not remove foliage that provides the food for next
year’s blooms. |
|
| 5. Leaves |
| Water: |
Water deeply, then allow the top 1-inch of soil to dry
completely before watering again. Do not water the bulb nose. |
| Fertilizer: |
Apply after blooms and stalks are removed and, then, at 5-6 week
intervals. Soluble or liquid complete (NPK) fertilizer at half
the recommended rate or a slow-release fertilizer at half
the recommended rate. |
| Light: |
Southern window exposure is best, east or west second best. In
northern exposures, provide additional light. |
| Care Indoors: |
Sunny window, normal home temperatures, avoid drafts, fertilize
and water as indicated above. |
| Care Outdoors: |
Move outdoors after all danger of frost is past. Semi-shaded
location, bright light, protection from wind, may require more
frequent watering. |
|
| 6. Dormancy |
| Water: |
No watering during the dormancy period which must be a minimum
of 6 weeks. |
| Temperature: |
Cool (40-50°F). A refrigerator crisper is ideal, but note,
apples kept in the same refrigerator will sterilize bulbs. |
| Fertilizer: |
No fertilizer at this time. Fertilizing before new growth will
damage and kill the roots. |
| Care: |
Bring bulbs indoors in September to begin the dormancy period.
Stop watering and feeding. As the foliage droops and turns yellow,
cut it off 2 inches above the neck of the bulb. Store pot or bulb
in cool, dry, dark place for a minimum of 6 weeks. |
| Timing: |
Amaryllis requires a minimum of 6 weeks of dormancy. After
planting, it takes another 6-8 weeks to flower. So, the start of
dormancy should be 16 weeks before you want your plant to flower.
For continuous bloom from December to May, stagger the start of
dormancy every two weeks from September to January. |
|
|
Start Over at #2
|
| Problems: |
| Failure to flower can be caused by: |
too much nitrogen
soil too rich or fertile
red blotch or leaf scorch
disturbing bulbs before maturity (when foliage has yellowed)
excess shade (small flowers of poor color)
excess sun (bleaching)
poor soil drainage and aeration |
| Diseases: |
red blotch (reddish brown spots on bulb, leaves)
mosaic virus (light yellow streaking of the leaves and reduced
growth)
bulb rot (soil too wet, bruised bulbs) —discard |
| Insects: |
scale, mites, thrips, mealybugs, bulb maggots |
|
REFERENCES:
Ornamental Horticulture Facts: Amaryllis, Paul A. Thomas, Extension
Horticulturist-Floriculture, The University of Georgia College of Agriculture
and Environmental Sciences, Cooperative Extension Service, Fact Sheet H-91-002
Amaryllis Colorful Boast of Christmases to Come, Dan Rahn, News Editor
with Mel Garber, Extensive Service Horticulturist, The University of Georgia
College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
Compiled August 2000
The University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, the U.S.
Department of Agriculture and counties of the state cooperating. The Cooperative
Extension Service offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all
people without regard to race, color, national origin, age, sex or disability.
Page last updated 12/00