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Cobb County Extension Service

Fact Sheet on Amaryllis (Hippeastrum)

By Rachel Swinford
Horticulture Program Assistant

email: uge1067@arches.uga.edu

Amaryllis
Hippeastrum spp.

General

Culture

References



Family: Amaryllidaceae/Liliaceae
Botanical Name: Hippeastrum spp.
Native to South America

What could be better in the middle of a gloomy winter than the large, showy flower of the popular Amaryllis? Amaryllis are outstanding holiday gifts that, if cared for properly, will bloom for years to come. They are not difficult to maintain, however, they are more complex than your everyday foliage houseplant. We hope this step-by-step guide will help you brighten the chill for many Januarys to come.

Description:
Plant:

Erect with flower cluster at the top, may produce flowers up to 75 years; large bulbs produce 2 hollow stalks, 18 – 36 inches tall

Flowers: Lily-like, bell-shaped, 6 petals, up to 8 inch across, as many as 6 flowers per stalk (average 4), sweet scented in red, pink, white, orange, salmon and bi-color combinations
Leaves: Strap-shaped, semi-erect appearing after flowering
Uses:
Cobb County: Container plant may be placed in the garden late spring and summer. (May also be overwintered outdoors with proper placement and sufficient mulching)
Macon and southward: Garden plant

 

Stages of Growth

1. Purchase Bulbs:
Size: Purchase the largest available bulb because the larger the bulb the better quality the flower. Look for firm, clean bulbs with no signs of withering, disease or insect damage. Bulbs should be dry and without new growth.
Note: If purchasing a pre-packaged bulb, evidence of new growth signals the break of dormancy. Begin watering and fertilizer treatment immediately.
2. Planting:
Pot: Size the pot so that there is 1 inch of space between the bulb and the side of the pot. Provide good drainage (1/2 inch of gravel works well).
Soil Mix: Sandy-loam mix, soil mix for bulbs or 1/2 peat and 1/2 perlite, slightly acid pH 6.0-6.8
Timing: Amaryllis requires a minimum of 6 weeks of dormancy. After planting, it takes another 6-8 weeks to flower. So, planting time should be 8 weeks before you want your plant to flower. For continuous bloom from December to May, stagger the start of dormancy every two weeks from September to January.
Shoots: For a bold display, leave bublets attached to the mother bulb. If you prefer, gently remove any bulblets and plant them individually. New bublets flower in about 2 years. Two-year-old bulbs produce bublets.
Preparation: Soak just the base and roots in lukewarm water for 2 hours.
Potting: Bury the bulb in soil leaving the top 1/3 of the bulb above the soil surface and 1/2 to 1 inch of space between the soil surface and the top of the pot (for ease of watering).
Moisture: Water thoroughly at this time and allow excess to drain. Do not leave pot sitting in water. Do not water bulb nose.
Light: Amaryllis are sun loving. Southern window exposure is best, east or west second best. In northern exposures, provide additional light.
Fertilizer: No fertilizer at this time. Fertilizer before new growth will damage and kill the roots.
3. New Growth
Water: Keep slightly moist (not wet) until flowering. Do not water bulb nose.
Light: Southern window exposure is best, east or west second best. In northern exposures, provide additional light. For even growth, turn pot every few days.
Temperature: Warm (70-75°F)
Fertilizer: Apply after new growth begins and again when stem is 6-8 inches tall. Soluble or liquid complete (NPK) fertilizer at half the recommended rate or a slow-release fertilizer at half the recommended rate.
4. Flower
Water: Increase water to prolong flowering. Do not water bulb nose.
Light: Keep plant out of direct sun when flowering.
Temperature: Cooler (65°F) to extend blooms.
Fertilizer: Apply immediately after flowering. Soluble or liquid complete (NPK) fertilizer at half the recommended rate or a slow-release fertilizer at half the recommended rate.
Care: Large bloom cultivars may require staking. As the flowers begin to fade, remove flower parts to prevent seed formation and drain on plant nutrients. After all flowers have bloomed cut stalk 2 inches above bulb neck (protect furniture from seepage from cut stalk). Do not remove foliage that provides the food for next year’s blooms.
5. Leaves
Water: Water deeply, then allow the top 1-inch of soil to dry completely before watering again. Do not water the bulb nose.
Fertilizer: Apply after blooms and stalks are removed and, then, at 5-6 week intervals. Soluble or liquid complete (NPK) fertilizer at half the recommended rate or a slow-release fertilizer at half the recommended rate.
Light: Southern window exposure is best, east or west second best. In northern exposures, provide additional light.
Care Indoors: Sunny window, normal home temperatures, avoid drafts, fertilize and water as indicated above.
Care Outdoors: Move outdoors after all danger of frost is past. Semi-shaded location, bright light, protection from wind, may require more frequent watering.
6. Dormancy
Water: No watering during the dormancy period which must be a minimum of 6 weeks.
Temperature: Cool (40-50°F). A refrigerator crisper is ideal, but note, apples kept in the same refrigerator will sterilize bulbs.
Fertilizer: No fertilizer at this time. Fertilizing before new growth will damage and kill the roots.
Care: Bring bulbs indoors in September to begin the dormancy period. Stop watering and feeding. As the foliage droops and turns yellow, cut it off 2 inches above the neck of the bulb. Store pot or bulb in cool, dry, dark place for a minimum of 6 weeks.
Timing: Amaryllis requires a minimum of 6 weeks of dormancy. After planting, it takes another 6-8 weeks to flower. So, the start of dormancy should be 16 weeks before you want your plant to flower. For continuous bloom from December to May, stagger the start of dormancy every two weeks from September to January.

Start Over at #2

Problems:
Failure to flower can be caused by:

too much nitrogen
soil too rich or fertile
red blotch or leaf scorch
disturbing bulbs before maturity (when foliage has yellowed)
excess shade (small flowers of poor color)
excess sun (bleaching)
poor soil drainage and aeration

Diseases: red blotch (reddish brown spots on bulb, leaves)
mosaic virus (light yellow streaking of the leaves and reduced      growth)
bulb rot (soil too wet, bruised bulbs) —discard
Insects: scale, mites, thrips, mealybugs, bulb maggots

REFERENCES:

Ornamental Horticulture Facts: Amaryllis, Paul A. Thomas, Extension Horticulturist-Floriculture, The University of Georgia College of Agriculture and Environmental Sciences, Cooperative Extension Service, Fact Sheet H-91-002

Amaryllis Colorful Boast of Christmases to Come, Dan Rahn, News Editor with Mel Garber, Extensive Service Horticulturist, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Compiled August 2000


The University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the state cooperating. The Cooperative Extension Service offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, age, sex or disability.

Page last updated 12/00