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Fact Sheet onRodents: Rats and MiceBy Laurene Hall |
COBB COUNTY EXTENSION SERVICE
Rodents:
Rats and Mice
Horticulture
Program Assistant
Cobb County Extension Service
We hate to say it, but there are all
kinds of ugly, little, hairy pests running around inside and outside your home. Judging
from the number of calls received in our Extension Office on this subject, these
pests can be annoying, as well as damaging to lawns, gardens, and homes.
In late summer and early fall, rat and
mice families are large. The onset
of cold weather may cause them to move into structures in search of shelter and
food. The best way to determine
whether a particular pest problem you are having can be attributed to a rat or
mouse is the ability to identify these pests.
Here is a list of rat and mouse critters that are common to the Metro
Atlanta area:
|
|
Eastern Wood Rat "Pack Rat" Neotoma floridana
|
Roof Rat “Black
Rat” Rattus
rattus, |
Norway Rat
Rattus
norvegicus |
House Mouse Mus musculus |
|
General Appearance
|
Length: 14 - 17 in. Weight: 6 - 12 oz. Grayish brown body with white or
grayish belly; large, rounded ears and bulging, black
eyes; hair-covered tail, black above and white below (tail is shorter than head
and body length). |
Length: 12 - 14 in. Weight: 5 - 10 oz. Sleek body with prominent
ears and eyes; color ranges from brown, gray, or black with a white or
buff belly; black, hairless, scaly tail is longer
than the head and body length. |
Length: 12 - 19 in. Weight: 10 - 16 oz. Stocky rodent with coarse hair; fur
colors range from brownish or reddish gray to black; white under belly
with a long naked tail (tail is shorter than head and body length). |
Length: 4 - 6 in. Weight: 0.4 - 0.8 oz. Small, slender body with grayish
brown hair and a gray or buff belly; slightly pointed nose with small,
black eyes, and large, hairy ears; nearly hairless tail with has scaly
rings (tail is
shorter than head and body length). |
|
Habits
|
Agile climber with primarily
nocturnal (active at night) behavior, especially when foraging for food;
builds a large stick den or house on the ground or in trees (nests can
contain many generations of wood rats). |
Agile climber with primarily
nocturnal behavior; inhabits landscaped residential or industrial areas;
may enter buildings from roofs or accesses near utility lines in search of
food or shelter; can be skittish and will modify travel routes and feeding
locations if severely and frequently disturbed. |
Can climb, but tends to inhabit lower
floors of buildings; primarily nocturnal behavior; may burrow to make
nests under buildings, concrete slabs, garbage dumps, or other locations
where food, water, and shelter are present. |
Mainly nocturnal; burrows into the
ground for shelter or may construct nests of shredded fibrous materials
(grafted into a loosely woven “ball”) in any sheltered location. |
|
Damage
|
Tends to pack away small objects such
as jewelry, utensils, can tabs, buttons, etc.; can shred upholstered
furniture and mattresses to line nests; may take up residence in parked
vehicles, gnawing wires or other mechanical components. |
Primarily nocturnal and will feed on
almost anything, thus can be destructive to gardens, crops, trees, lawns,
and garbage; indoors, they tear up insulation, gnaw through electrical
wiring, feed on poorly sealed, stored foods especially pet food and bird
seed. |
Will eat nearly any type of food,
thus contaminating foodstuffs and animal feed; causes structural damage by
burrowing and gnawing through doors, window sills, walls, ceilings,
floors, water pipes, and electrical wires. |
Causes damage from “nibbler”
feeding habits; Feeds on various stored food items or pet foods and
contaminates these items with its urine, droppings, and hair; gnawing and
nest-building activities cause structural damage to insulation of walls
and attics. |
Seeing a mouse during daylight hours
does not necessarily mean that a high population is present, although this is
usually true for rats.
Rats
and mice will inhabit a variety of places including woodpiles, bushes, tall
grasses, and underground burrows. They often find shelter in buildings, cars,
appliances, and furniture that has been put outside. They are most attracted to
garbage cans with loose lids, birdseed, pet food in pet dishes, and fruits and
berries on the ground. Furthermore,
compost bins containing meat, fish, poultry, or dairy wastes are rat magnets.
Do not put these items in your compost.
Once
inside your home, rats and mice will eat the same foods as humans. They will attack anything they can get into (such as loosely
sealed items or containers made of materials they can gnaw through), including:
grains, cereal, oats, rice, vegetables, meats and fish, nuts, and fruits.
Rat or Mouse Indicators
Ø
Droppings:
mice = size of black rice grains, rats = size of Tylenol;
Can be seen along runways and feeding
areas
Ø
Tracks:
footprints or tail marks, on dusty surfaces or in mud
Ø
Urine:
(both wet and dry) can be seen under ultraviolet light
Ø
Runs
or Burrows: habitual pathways found along walls and fences
Ø
Smudge
marks: marks on walls, beams, rafters or pipes resulting from oil and dirt
rubbing off rat’s fur
Ø
Gnawing:
chewed doors, ledges, walls, as well as accumulations of wood shavings
and insulation
Ø
Sounds:
gnawing, scratching, clawing, various squeaks, and fighting noises are common
where rats are present
Prevention and Control
The time to act is before there are
signs of a rat or mouse. Try these
preventive measures:
Ø
Stack
fire wood 18 inches off the ground and away from all buildings.
Ø
Birdhouses
and seed should be on poles and in trays rats cannot reach.
Ø
Keep
garbage can lids closed tightly.
Ø
Remove
leftover pet food from pet dishes and pick up fruit and vegetables off the
ground.
Ø
Do
not compost animal products (fish, meat, chicken, cheese, butter, etc).
Ø
Keep
any food in closed containers that rats cannot chew through.
Ø
Seal
holes in your house that are 1 in. – 1 ½ in. wide or larger.
Use materials that will resist rodent gnawing (i.e. concrete mortar,
galvanized sheet metal, and heavy-gauge hardware cloth).
(*
Tip: stuff holes with steel wool and then place caulking over hole to further
deter rodents from gnawing
that area)
Ø
Roof
rats enter homes from tree branches that hang over the roof. Keep trees cut back
and cover any openings in the eaves.
Good
sanitation practices are the best prevention procedures.
Excluding rodents from your home should not only be your first step, but
also your most effective option.
To
kill a mouse or rat, use a trap! The best trap is the simple, cheap, wooden
"snap trap." There are a variety of effective traps sold in hardware
stores. The most important aspect to trapping is to use plenty of them.
Bait traps with foods that have a strong odor, such as peanut butter or
bacon. Place them along the wall (at a right angle), in cupboards, drawers, and
other place where rodents run. First,
put out baited,
un-set
traps. After the rodents have been
become accustomed to feeding from the traps (usually takes about
2
– 3 days), set these traps. Here
are some examples of traps:
Figures 1& 2: Snap Traps Figure 3: Glue Traps Figure 4: Live Cage Trap


In
cases where rodent infestations are extreme and all trapping efforts have been
exhausted without any sign of effectiveness, there is a last resort.
Rodents find some types of tastes and odors objectionable, but chemical
repellents are seldom a practical solution.
Ropel is registered for use in repelling rodents from gnawing on
trees, poles, fences, shrubs, garbage, and other objects.
There are several registered poisons for rodent control.
Contact our County Extension Office for chemical recommendations.
Poison baits should be used outside of the home.
Mice or rats need to eat them each day for about a week before they die.
Maintain a continuous supply of bait for 15 days or until feeding ceases, thus
ensuring that the entire rat population has ample opportunity to ingest a lethal
dose of the bait. Pre-baiting (offering
mice and rats non-toxic bait prior to applying toxicant-treated bait) is
recommended to increase bait acceptance. Poisons
are not highly recommended for rat control, because children or pets may eat
them by mistake. Pets can be poisoned by any contact with a poisoned rat.
Also, poisoned rats can die in hard to reach places, causing a very bad
odor. Always observe all directions, restrictions, and precautions
on pesticide labels.
Dead
rats must first be wrapped in newspaper, or placed in a plastic bag before
putting them in a tightly covered garbage can. Try not to touch the dead rat
because they are known to carry and transmit diseases. Use gloves if possible
and thoroughly wash your hands with hot water and soap after getting rid of dead
rats (even if you used gloves).
A
combination of preventive measures and good control techniques should keep mice
and rats away from your home. It is
necessary to regularly maintain these practices to decrease the likelihood of
future rodent problems. Encourage
your neighbors to follow the same guidelines.
This will help prevent rodent problems from affecting the whole
community. Do not give food and
shelter to these most unwanted guests!
The University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the state cooperating. The Cooperative Extension Service offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, age, sex or disability.
Page last updated 11/03