Cobb County Cooperative Extension

Plant of the Month

Narcissus species

Common name: Daffodils, Jonquils

By

Cornelius Tarver

Horticulture Program Assistant

Maybe no other plant, save azaleas, says its spring in Georgia as loudly as daffodils do. Though they’re one of the most common flowers there is they’re never boring because of the wide variety that exist. Their beauty, color, ease of care and length of bloom time is what makes daffodils so popular. Daffodil varieties bloom in early, middle or late spring. Carefully planning a stand based on the bloom sequence can extend the show from late winter to May.

Proper Name: Known botanically as Narcissus species, they are commonly known as daffodils and sometimes jonquils too. Though used interchangeably Narcissus is the botanical name of the entire genus, while daffodil is the common name for the genus and jonquil is actually just one species of narcissus, Narcissus jonquilla. Despite what you call them what Juliet told Romeo about roses applies here too.

Planting Time: Though it’s a spring blooming bulb, it’s necessary to plant it in the fall beginning in October for north Georgia’s climate. However, temperatures are the better determining factor than the calendar. If fall temperatures are above normal than its best to hold off planting until temperatures return to normal. Planting in the fall allows the bulbs to establish strong root systems while the ground is still warm, but the bulbs need to be planted before temperatures get too cold and the ground freezes. Once established, daffodils naturalize easily and can flower reliably year after year with little care.

Divisions:  According to the American Daffodil Society there are at least 25 recognized species of daffodils. In addition to these there are 13,000 different hybrids which are then classified into divisions.

Botanically speaking, daffodils are classified into 12 or 13 different divisions. In general, the divisions are based on characteristics of the flower parts known as the corona and the perianth. The corona is the center part of the flower commonly called the cup or the trumpet, while the perianth consists of the petals and sepals of the flower. A list of divisions and examples of each are as follows:

Division I.   Trumpet narcissi. The corona is as long as or longer than the perianth and bears one flower per stem. Ex. “ Dutch Master”, “Mt. Hood” and “Lemon Glow”.

Division II. Large-cupped narcissi. The corona is longer than 1/3 but less than the full length of the perianth. It also has one flower per stem. Ex. “Ice Follies”, “Salome” and “Rainbow”.

Division III. Small-cupped narcissi. The corona is less than 1/3 the length of the perianth with a single flower on each stem. Ex. “Barrett Browning”, “Aircastle” and “Merlin”.

Division IV. Double narcissi. Some part of the flower, (corona or perianth), is double. Ex. “Dick Wilden”, “Cheerfulness” and “Yellow Cheerfulness”.

Division V.   Triandrus narcissi. Perianth is slightly reflexed, (curved backwards); with more than one flower per stem and flowers often hang down.  Ex. “Thalia” , “Hawera” and “Liberty Bells”.

Division VI.  Cyclamineus narcissi.  Perianth is more reflexed than in Division V and the corona longer with only one flower per stem. Ex. “Jack Snipe”, “Bartley” and “Charity May”.

Division VII.  Jonquilla narcissi. These are the true jonquils. Fragrant, usually solid yellow flowers borne in clusters on stems. Ex. “Trevithian”, “Sweetness” and “Pipit”.

Division VIII.  Tazetta narcissi. Fragrant medium to small size flowers borne in clusters and blooming very early in spring. Ex. “Minnow”, “Scarlet Gem” and “Silver Chimes”.

Division IX.  Poeticus narcissi. Fragrant, with large, usually white, perianth and small, sometimes red ringed corona. Flowers one per stem. Ex. “Actaea”, “Praecox” and “Andrew Marvel”.

Division X.  Bulbocodium hybrids.  Wild forms and wild hybrids encompassing a wide variety of characteristics. Ex. “Narcissus canaliculatus”, “N.bulbocodium” Hoop-Petticoat Daffodil, and “N. pseudonarcissus” Wild Daffodil.

Division XI.  Split corona narcissi.  The corona is in some way split for at least 1/3 of its length. Flowers borne one per stem. Ex. “Orangery”, “Lemon Beauty” and “Broadway Star”.

Division XII.  Miscellaneous narcissi. All narcissi not falling into any of the other divisions. Ex. “Donna Bella”, “Elfhorn” and “Junior Miss”.

Division XIII. Some authorities create this division by reclassifying other varieties that are listed in Divisions X, XI and XII by other sources.

Description of Divisions

Bulb Selection: Important to the success of your daffodils is the bulb selection which involves the quality as well as the variety of the bulb. Buy the bulbs in early fall when they first start appearing in the garden centers. If purchased from a catalogue place your order in time for early fall delivery. Look for healthy bulbs clear of spots, blemishes or sunken areas. Also select the largest size bulbs for whichever variety you’re planting.

Soil Preparation: Narcissus is adaptable to many types of soil but good drainage is the most important soil related factor for successful planting. Poor drainage can prevent flowering and easily lead to bulb rot. If you have heavy clay soil, break the soil up and amend it with course organic matter such as manure, peat moss or compost. Creating a raised bed is also an option if the ground can’t be successfully amended.

Narcissus prefers slightly acid soils, so don’t add lime unless it’s recommended by a soil test. Before planting you should always have your soil tested by your county extension office to determine specific liming and fertilizing needs.

Fertilization: Use fertilizers with higher phosphorous and potassium than nitrogen such as 6-24-24, or any complete fertilizer with a 1:3:3 or 1:4:4 ratios. Fertilizers labeled specifically as bulb fertilizers should work fine. Incorporate the fertilizer into the soil before planting to the same depth that the bulbs will be planted. Too much nitrogen will promote excessive leaf growth at the expense of flowering. An indication of too much nitrogen is large, bluish-green leaves.

Light Requirement: Daffodils need adequate sunlight to grow and flower successfully. Plant them where they can receive at least 6 full hours of sunlight per day. Some early flowering daffodils can be planted under deciduous trees as long as they have time to complete flowering before the trees leaf out in the spring. However avoid planting under evergreens or planting late flowering varieties under deciduous trees.

Planting and Spacing: Always plant daffodil bulbs flat end down. However, the depth depends on the size of the bulb. In general, when planting in medium to heavy soils plant them twice as deep as the bulbs widest diameter. In lighter sandy soils plant them three times as deep as the bulbs widest diameter. Recommended spacing also depends on bulb size, type of planting and desired effect. Whether planted as a shrub border, perennial bed or mixed planting, daffodils should be planted in groups of 3 – 12 bulbs spaced from 3” to 12” apart depending on the size of the bulbs. Closer planting will produce a showier display of flowers in less time, but the clumps will require division sooner. For naturalizing in a field you could scatter the bulbs and then plant them where they land.

Watering: Daffodils need good moisture for active growth and to flower well. Water the bulbs thoroughly after planting.  The cool season is usually rainy in Georgia. If rain is inadequate in the fall and spring your daffodils would appreciate some watering. The bulbs like it dry during dormancy when their blooms have faded and the leaves have died. Too much moisture while they’re dormant can cause the bulb rot.

Mulching: Mulch the planted area with two inches of pine straw, bark nuggets, leaves or other similar material after planting. Mulch helps retain moisture, insulate the soil, maintain soil temperature and suppress weeds. Daffodils sown in a meadow or lawn won’t require mulching.

Maintenance:  Remove the dead flowers once the blooms have died, but the leaves should be left until they turn yellow. If that is undesirable, then they can be removed one-month after the flowers have faded. When the leaves are allowed to remain they continue to manufacture plant food which promotes maturity and bulb development. Removing the dead flowers will neaten the appearance and prevent seed production which could cause smaller bulbs the next year.

Digging and Dividing:  Narcissus planted at the recommended spacing may need dividing after five years due to crowding. A sign that a clump has become too crowded is that the blooms get smaller over time. To divide a clump, dig the bulbs as soon as the tops begin to die back. Digging the bulbs while the leaves are still present helps locate clumps. Once dug up, you could replant the bulbs in their new location at that time, or you could store them for planting again in the fall. If you’re planning to store them, cut off the dieing leaves when you dig them up. Place them in an airy, shady location to dry. Then store them in a cool, shaded, well ventilated location away from direct sunlight.

If you want to divide a clump while your daffodils are dormant, you can mark the clump with an inconspicuous stake in the ground or rock while they’re in bloom. Then you’ll be able to locate the clump after the tops have died back.

Pests and Diseases:  Daffodils have few pests or disease problems. Rodents such as squirrels or rats rarely eat them though they might dig them up. Bulb rots are the most common problem of daffodils. However, rots are due primarily to cultural practices. Proper bulb selection and planting procedures will prevent most rots.

The extensive variety and sheer beauty of daffodils make them a delightful addition to any landscape. Because they’re so easy to plant and care for they’re an excellent bulb for everybody from the novice gardener to a professional to grow.

References:

American Daffodil Society.  http://daffodilusa.org/index.html

Bulbs; Eyewitness Garden Handbooks, New York 1997

“The Narcissus” by Michael N. Dana and B. Rosie Lerner, Purdue University Cooperative Extension 2001

“Spring-Flowering Bulbs” by Karen Russ and Bob Polomski, Clemson University Cooperative Extension 1999

“Spring Flowering Bulbs: Daffodils” by David Trinklein, University of Missouri Cooperative Extension 2002

North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension narcissus images: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/narcissus/narcissus.html

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