Bonsai is the combination of horticulture and art. The combination of these two disciplines make bonsai an unique hobby. But be forewarned that this undertaking is time consuming and to be fulfilling as well as rewarding requires a lifelong commitment.
The "art" in bonsai is the design of the tree to make it appear to be a mature forest specimen, in miniature, living in a relatively small container. The designs or styles of bonsai are taken from trees growing in a native woods or forest. There are 5 basic styles as depicted graphically below:
There are advance styles which are derivatives of the above and these are best learned by joining a local bonsai club and participating in group "workshops".
Plant material selected for use as bonsai should have small leaves or needles, attractive bark and the trunk must give the illusion of maturity. The trunk should have girth (a good sized diameter), but must be in proportion to the remainder of the tree. The trunk should taper gradually toward the top of the tree. To give the appearance of age the upper 1/4 to 1/3 of the root structure of a mature bonsai is often exposed on the soil surface in the container. Tangled and twisted roots are often combed and straightened at time of potting or re-potting.
Before potting a tree in any of the basic styles, keep in mind the image of how the tree will stand in the container. Don't plant the tree one way and then uproot it to make a change. View the tree from many angles and make a decision on your perceived style for the tree, then stick to it.
The tree is never planted in the center of the container, except when planted in a round or square container. It is always planted off-center in an oval, rectangle or free-form container.
BONSAI HORTICULTURE
You are working with living plant material which will require pruning throughout the growing season to maintain the style you chose for it. If you do not prune the tree to maintain its shape you will never succeed in having a mature bonsai with the appearance of a forest giant in miniature.
Your bonsai will require re-potting. Young very vigorous plants may need re-potting twice each year. The tree's growth rate determines the frequency of re-potting. Rapid growing species such as crape myrtle or willow will need re-potting at least twice each year until about 5-10 years of age. Pines, junipers, spruce and other conifers are generally re-potted every 3-5 years; flowering and fruiting plants such as azaleas, pomegranates, crabapple, or quince are re-potted each year. Please note: Quince are usually re-potted in the late fall (mid-October through middle December in the Atlanta area) - the root system of quince is very weak (at best) and very suceptible to disease when injured during the growing season. All other species of trees are re-potted in the early spring when the first new leave buds begin to appear. Re-potting during the summer is not advised for beginners.
Most bonsai are styled from hardy woody plants which remain outdoors at all seasons of the year. Bonsai can be brought indoors for short periods of time for special occasions, at most for two days. Bonsai styled from woody plant material need good natural air circulation and the natural outdoor humidiy.
If you insist on using tropical plants (otherwise known as 'indoor plants') check your local library for information on "indoor bonsai".
Remember to maintain your bonsai as you would your landscape trees. Keep the bonsai which require partial shade in partial shade. Conifers ( junipers and pines) will tolerate full sun even on the hottest days; however, they may need watering at least twice a day.
Soil Mixes:
The criteria for bonsai soil mixes is that they should be quick draining, have a structure which permits fine root development, contain decaying humus and mineral nutrients.
Soil mixtures vary a great deal depending on the local availability of products and personal preferences. Many growers find commercially bagged potting mixes satisfactory.
A good basic mix consists of 1/3 clay, 1/3 humus and 1/3 sand or other inert material (such as perlite or crushed stone-granite grit). You can substitute ground pine bark or compost for humus.
MOST IMPORTANT IS A GOOD HEALTHY ROOT SYSTEM AND YOU CAN ONLY ACHIEVE THIS BY PROVIDING A FREE DRAINING SOIL MIX IN THE CONTAINER WHICH WILL NOT WATER-LOG.
Seasonal Care:
Summer: Place your bonsai on a platform or table outdoors where they will receive 3-5 hours of direct sunlight each day with preferably afternoon shade. Do not block air circulation by walls or fences; the platform or table should be free standing.
Water the entire bonsai daily - plant and soil. If you skip a day you may permanently damage the root system.
Fall: During this period you want to prepare your bonsai for the approaching cold weather of winter. Use reduced rates of fertilizer, and in addition reduce your watering. Do not prune any branches after mid September. Your deciduous trees will require much less water as their foliage turns color and is naturally dropped prior to dormancy.
Spring: This is the busiest time of the year for a bonsai grower. Pruning, styling, and re-potting cannot be neglected. It is also the time for starting new bonsai. This is a continuous process.
Fertilizer:
You want to maintain steady growth without vigorous shoot development. Do not over fertilize. Use fertilizer at the recommended rate. Water soluble fertilizers of a 20-20-20 formulation are a good choice for bonsai. Be certain to thoroughly flush the soil at least once each month to remove residual salt deposits left by all fertilizers. Do not fertilize more frequently than every two weeks from late spring to early summer. Do not fertilize during the summer. You can fertilize your bonsai again in the fall (mid September to mid-November) at 1/4 the recommended rate on the label.
Watering:
Whatever you do in the maintenance of your bonsai - DO NOT OVER-WATER.
Suggested Plant Material for Beginners:
Juniper: "chinensis" Chinese juniper, low growing, spreading and mounding types. Avoid Pfitzer variety junipers.
Azaleas: "Kurume" - early blooming; "Satsuki" - late blooming.
Maples: American and Japanese varieties.
There are 2 local bonsai clubs which you can contact for further information:
North Georgia Bonsai Study Club, P.O. Box 7344, Marietta, GA 30065 or Atlanta Bonsai Society, P.O. Box 18653, Atlanta, GA 30326- (404/876-5827).
The University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the state cooperating. The Cooperative Extension Service offers educational programs, assistance and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, age, sex or disability.